Today was phenomenal! After much ado about surfing, Ted took me to the state park for my first lesson and HOLD ME BACK! I’m in love with it! After trying for a few waves that didn’t pan out, I caught one that took me all the way into the beach—I think I actually may have heard him yell, “Jump off! You’re going to run the fins into the sand!”
There were some other rides that were almost as good and in between those were (what I thought were, anyway) raving successes. I was successfully popping up on the board! That’s a success even if I did lose my balance shortly thereafter—right?
In between waves, my partner-turned-surf coach explained how sets work and what you look for when trying to spot a wave. He told me what the shoulder is and what it means to be too deep or too shallow. I practiced turning my board by moving my feet under water and learned the importance of really digging in as I paddle.
St. Andrew's State Park |
When I reached my maximum sun exposure (while we may be the Fighting Irish, we win very few battles when it comes to skin cancer), we decided to head in for the day and go over to the local surf shop to outfit me with “real board shorts and a rash guard that fits.” Evidently, I looked like a poser in my Columbia fishing shorts (Hey—they had built-in sunscreen!) and my borrowed rash guard. So we drove a few miles down the beach to the local surf shop, Mr. Surf’s (www.mrsurfs.com), where I was outfitted with real board shorts and a, rash guard that fit.
Finn's Island Style Grub - Panama City Beach, Fla. |
I’m sooo ready for my next surf session.