Saturday, June 4, 2011

A Quiet Morning on the Water - July 24, 2010

If all I wanted to do was go surfing before, it’s really all I want to do now that I have my own board.  The first weekend after getting Greenie was packed with things I had to do but where there’s a will, there’s a way.
We scurried down to the beach around 6:30 on Saturday morning so I could make it to the baby shower I was co-hosting for my best friend at 9:00.  It was a pretty small day, so we walked up the beach about 10 minutes to a spot where the waves were breaking slightly larger than elsewhere. 
As we walked along, the sand squeaked beneath our feet and Ted attempted to educate me on beach breaks versus point breaks.  I was trying to take it in, really I was, but I was just so darn excited to be carrying my new board…my own board. 
There she is - "Baby Blue"
So yeah, not having to worry about that was a relief, and it was nice to be able to easily walk along the water’s edge and just enjoy the morning.  Because the waves were so small, they merely lapped onto the shore, which made for an unusually quiet beach. 
One of the best things about Greenie is that it’s not only lighter than Ted’s board, it’s narrower too so I can more easily tuck it under my arm.  When I carried his board, I could just baaarrely get my fingertips around it.  So each time I walked with his board down the road to the beach access, I was afraid I was going to drop it on the asphalt.  The thought of that killed me, especially since he commissioned a shaper in San Diego to make the dang thing.  I know—that board cost him more than half of what I paid for my first car.  Granted, that “older Volvo” was older than me, but still!

Once in the water, he took some pictures of me paddling out.  The gulf was especially clear that morning; sometimes I wonder how the Caribbean could be any prettier than these aqua waters.  As we waited for a large enough wave for him to push me on, I lay on the board and honestly, I just enjoyed floating there.  I know it sounds like the most passive “surf” experience ever, but it was just so nice.  I took in the beautiful surroundings, I appreciated the quiet beach, and I admired my new board as I traced the letters, N-S-P, on the logo stamped at the top of the board. 
Mix that with some nice little rides, and you have yourself a pretty decent way to wake up.


 

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