The Hoff - March 31, 2011

Continued from previous post:

After our surf  lesson, we walked up Avenida de la Playa to grab some fish tacos.  Luckily the restaurant had patio seating so we could wear our wetsuits while we ate.  It felt glorious, sitting with the sun at our backs, warming us up.

Papalulus Restaurant - San Diego 

Once we were refueled, we rented some epoxy boards from Surf Diva, which were much closer to what we use, and headed back out into the water.  The swell had built to about shoulder high while we were at lunch and the waves had a lot more power than what we’re used to back home.  Keep in mind, most of the waves in the gulf form from wind, whereas waves in the ocean originate from the much stronger forces like tides and currents that have traveled for thousands of miles.

I got to experience this power first hand when I was caught sneaking up too far forward on my board.  The waves had no problem picking me up and pitching me over the front of my board.  The “washing machine” effect that I’d feel when getting tossed around in the wave was much stronger than I was used to, but admittedly more fun (like the scary type of fun that roller coasters are known for). 

The lineup was getting more and more crowded as the day wore on and we were having trouble getting a spot to surf.

With lineups like these, you better stay sharp.

Luckily though, we were beginning to get the hang of things and scoring more waves, in spite of the crowds and more intimidating sets.  It was so cool, surfing in the Pacific.  This was something Ted and I have daydreamed about for almost a year now, ever since that first day out on a board.  It was neat being surrounded by so many other surfers (not just sunburnt Alabamians standing right in your surf path). 

Cousin Eddie - there's nothing more to say.

After a couple of hours, we heard commotion down the lineup and saw two rescue jet skis roaring up to a surfer just to the south of us.  That’s it!  I knew there was some sea life (Read: shark) just waiting to have its way with one of us surfers!  We sat up on our boards and watched as the lifeguards pulled the surfer up on the sled and towed him back to shore. 

Example of a Jet Ski Rescue - Compliments of Explore.org Rescue

Oddly, there wasn’t any more fuss with the other surfers…and everyone returned to normal, so we began to think it wasn’t a “whitie” after all.  So we returned to looking for, and occasionally riding, more waves and enjoyed our time in the water.

After we came in for the day, I was at the showers rinsing off our wetsuits while Ted returned our boards to the shop.  While I was there, the injured surfer came up to one of the other showers, so I of course took this opportunity to subtly check for any gashes or tears in his wetsuit.  I didn’t see any so I asked him what the rescue was all about.  It turns out the guy had just dislocated his shoulder – which shows some epic commitment to a strong paddle.  Good for him!  

So maybe it wasn’t as dramatic as I was thinking, but either way, it was cool to see some real Californian lifeguards in action.

Yes, I did.